Sports Med Open November 2024 PMID 39560837

Effects of Different Loading Programs on Finger Strength in Rock Climbers.

Natalie K Gilmore, Peter Klimek, Emil Abrahamsson, Keith Baar

Mentions

37
Peak: 13 in Nov 2024
across 5 sources since Nov 2024

Extended reach

1,253,828
potential audience

Total likes

29,955

Video views

1,127,633

Mentions per month

Nov 2024 – Sep 2025

Where it's discussed

  • X / Twitter25 posts
  • YouTube4 videos
  • News4 articles
  • Bluesky2 posts
  • Reddit2 posts

AI synopsis

What people are saying

The collection of discussions shows widespread enthusiasm, with individuals citing examples such as the Abrahang protocol and low-impact training, using enthusiastic words like 'game changer' and 'massive grip gains'. The tone underscores a shared belief that these findings could revolutionize finger training and injury prevention, making the impact seem highly significant.

AgreementStrong agreement

Most discussions agree with the publication, emphasizing the effectiveness of low-intensity holds and the significance of new training protocols.

InterestHigh interest

Posts demonstrate high interest by sharing detailed summaries, links to videos, and praising specific training methods like the Abrahang protocol.

EngagementHigh engagement

Many users engage deeply by referencing scientific explanations, suggesting modifications, and discussing implications for different athletes.

ImpactHigh impact

There's consensus that the findings could influence training approaches across disciplines, highlighting potential improvements in safety and performance.

Abstract in brief

  • This study compared the effects of a short, low-intensity hangboarding protocol (Abrahangs) with a traditional high-intensity Max Hangs protocol on climbers' grip strength, finding that both methods improved finger strength.
  • The results showed that frequent, low-intensity finger exercises were just as effective as maximum-load training, and combining both approaches led to even greater strength gains.
  • The findings suggest that incorporating gentle, long-duration holds into training routines can effectively improve finger strength without the risk of injury, making them a practical addition to climbers' training programs.

Top posts

Most liked on X and Bluesky
Keith Baar
@MuscleScience · X

Check out our latest paper. This one is on training the tendons of the fingers. https://t.co/x95uonCHEs If you want a synopsis of the paper, check out this YouTube video. https://t.co/7ay3g4IGyJ Comments always welcome

Nov 26, 2024 · 48 likes · 10 shares · 32,673 followers View post →
kzymatsui
@mikazuya1986 · X

あとでみる。 Mind-Blowing Finger Strength Study with Dr. Keith Baar https://t.co/CUQlPTP7Iw via @YouTube

Nov 19, 2024 · 15 likes · 753 followers View post →
Tadej Debevec
@DebevecTadej · X

New in @SportsMedicineJ Gilmore et al. Effects of Different Loading Programs on Finger Strength in Rock Climbers https://t.co/5SFGBgrpHN

Nov 25, 2024 · 7 likes · 1 share · 3,791 followers View post →
Ancient Rambo
@TheBriceMontana · X

@GodsWrestler133 Wrestlers gotta start implementing the Abrahang protocol that Emil Abrahamsson developed for climbing finger recovery/strengthening. Massive grip gains from 10 minutes of low impact daily training https://t.co/2B9CqjGY6E https://t.co/r11ESxfaky

May 27, 2025 · 2 likes · 1,369 followers View post →
まち
@machi32_ow · X

みんな保持力強くしたいっすよね やっぱり https://t.co/jUCMTDG9i1

Dec 30, 2024 · 2 likes · 369 followers View post →
Sports Medicine
@SportsMedicineJ · X

RT @DebevecTadej: New in @SportsMedicineJ Gilmore et al. Effects of Different Loading Programs on Finger Strength in Rock Climbers https:…

Nov 25, 2024 · 1 share · 53,683 followers View post →

All mentions

Dustin
@countrycashflow · X

How To Build Finger Strength (SCIENCE EXPLAINED) https://t.co/RafwZ6ck7D via @YouTube

Sep 1, 2025 · 196 followers View post →
Τεστικλης
@statueAnon · X

@danielgothits https://t.co/9rOP0OGxO8 has been a game changer for shoulder/hip/knee/ankle issues for me

Aug 21, 2025 · 40 followers View post →
とーーーーーーーーふジエンド
@t00000000000fu · X

https://t.co/9nGz9dbxXx

Aug 15, 2025 · 11 followers View post →
Marco
@Marcofisio096 · X

RT @MuscleScience: Check out our latest paper. This one is on training the tendons of the fingers. https://t.co/x95uonCHEs If you want a…

Jun 8, 2025 · 10 shares · 3 followers View post →
Ancient Rambo
@TheBriceMontana · X

@GodsWrestler133 Wrestlers gotta start implementing the Abrahang protocol that Emil Abrahamsson developed for climbing finger recovery/strengthening. Massive grip gains from 10 minutes of low impact daily training https://t.co/2B9CqjGY6E https://t.co/r11ESxfaky

May 27, 2025 · 2 likes · 1,369 followers View post →
Rik
@rikabel69.bsky.social · Bluesky

youtu.be/XXrDQ8PCAmI?...

May 14, 2025 View post →
Copra_equus
@Copra_equus · X

RT @MuscleScience: Check out our latest paper. This one is on training the tendons of the fingers. https://t.co/x95uonCHEs If you want a…

May 13, 2025 · 10 shares · 314 followers View post →
Workout School
@school_workout · X

“These results suggest that low-intensity long duration holds provide a promising training paradigm for training finger strength that is gentle enough to incorporate into existing training programs.” https://t.co/M7985cnJN0

May 12, 2025 · 32 followers View post →
Alex
@alex2twit · X

Grip Strength Science. How To Build Finger Strength (SCIENCE EXPLAINED) https://t.co/tfJQNSpiFA via @YouTube

May 8, 2025 · 157 followers View post →
さんばんぴ
@death_nothin · X

How To Build Finger Strength (SCIENCE EXPLAINED) https://t.co/Rt4nWfnrZZ @YouTubeより

Apr 22, 2025 · 674 followers View post →
thatwasit.bsky.social
@thatwasit.bsky.social · Bluesky

Short light hangboarding can do amazing things for finger and wrist stregth. See: youtu.be/XXrDQ8PCAmI?...

Mar 23, 2025 View post →
Adam Bulchak
@AdamBulchak · X

How To Build Finger Strength (SCIENCE EXPLAINED) https://t.co/jBUfYkqQT9 via @YouTube

Mar 13, 2025 · 822 followers View post →
Jørgen
@Yorgenbean · X

RT @MuscleScience: Check out our latest paper. This one is on training the tendons of the fingers. https://t.co/x95uonCHEs If you want a…

Feb 27, 2025 · 10 shares · 264 followers View post →
Nicholas Miraglia
@nickMira9 · X

RT @MuscleScience: Check out our latest paper. This one is on training the tendons of the fingers. https://t.co/x95uonCHEs If you want a…

Feb 15, 2025 · 10 shares · 838 followers View post →
Josiah Sinclair
@josiah_sinclair · X

RT @MuscleScience: Check out our latest paper. This one is on training the tendons of the fingers. https://t.co/x95uonCHEs If you want a…

Feb 14, 2025 · 10 shares · 84 followers View post →
まち
@machi32_ow · X

みんな保持力強くしたいっすよね やっぱり https://t.co/jUCMTDG9i1

Dec 30, 2024 · 2 likes · 369 followers View post →
Robin Larsson
@RobinLarssonRPT · X

Low load training for maximum finger strength! https://t.co/qonGW4wVP4

Nov 27, 2024 · 79 followers View post →
André Katayama Yamada
@KatayamaYamada · X

RT @MuscleScience: Check out our latest paper. This one is on training the tendons of the fingers. https://t.co/x95uonCHEs If you want a…

Nov 27, 2024 · 10 shares · 403 followers View post →
Kyle Sammons | SCCC, CSCS, PRI, PN1
@CoachKSammons · X

RT @MuscleScience: Check out our latest paper. This one is on training the tendons of the fingers. https://t.co/x95uonCHEs If you want a…

Nov 26, 2024 · 10 shares · 1,114 followers View post →
Mike Pagliacci
@drmikepagliacci · X

RT @MuscleScience: Check out our latest paper. This one is on training the tendons of the fingers. https://t.co/x95uonCHEs If you want a…

Nov 26, 2024 · 10 shares · 138 followers View post →
Vern Gambetta
@coachgambetta · X

RT @MuscleScience: Check out our latest paper. This one is on training the tendons of the fingers. https://t.co/x95uonCHEs If you want a…

Nov 26, 2024 · 10 shares · 27,039 followers View post →
UC Davis Physiology
@ucd_physiology · X

RT @MuscleScience: Check out our latest paper. This one is on training the tendons of the fingers. https://t.co/x95uonCHEs If you want a…

Nov 26, 2024 · 10 shares · 842 followers View post →
Keith Baar
@MuscleScience · X

Check out our latest paper. This one is on training the tendons of the fingers. https://t.co/x95uonCHEs If you want a synopsis of the paper, check out this YouTube video. https://t.co/7ay3g4IGyJ Comments always welcome

Nov 26, 2024 · 48 likes · 10 shares · 32,673 followers View post →
Sports Medicine
@SportsMedicineJ · X

RT @DebevecTadej: New in @SportsMedicineJ Gilmore et al. Effects of Different Loading Programs on Finger Strength in Rock Climbers https:…

Nov 25, 2024 · 1 share · 53,683 followers View post →
Tadej Debevec
@DebevecTadej · X

New in @SportsMedicineJ Gilmore et al. Effects of Different Loading Programs on Finger Strength in Rock Climbers https://t.co/5SFGBgrpHN

Nov 25, 2024 · 7 likes · 1 share · 3,791 followers View post →
あ~れす@RTAer
@ARL_LR2 · X

https://t.co/9WdIsajG91

Nov 22, 2024 · 285 followers View post →
kzymatsui
@mikazuya1986 · X

あとでみる。 Mind-Blowing Finger Strength Study with Dr. Keith Baar https://t.co/CUQlPTP7Iw via @YouTube

Nov 19, 2024 · 15 likes · 753 followers View post →